- Climbing skins give your skis grip for uphill travel while still allowing a gliding stride.
- Material matters: mohair glides best, nylon grips best, and mixes balance both traits.
- Trim to fit: skins should sit 1-1.5mm inside both ski edges, leaving edges exposed.
- Keep them clean: dirt, moisture, and heat are the main enemies of skin glue.
- Carry backups: ski straps or duct tape can rescue a failing skin mid-tour.
How Ski Skins Work & How to Choose Them
Long before high-speed detachable gondolas, skiers relied on climbing skins to travel uphill across deep snow. Modern skins are made from mohair, synthetic (nylon) fibers, or a blend of the two, replacing the seal fur used in the earliest designs. The directional plush fibers lie flat when you slide forward and dig in when you push back — that is what lets you ascend without sliding downhill.
The single most important decision is the skin material, because it directly determines your balance of grip, glide, and durability.
| Material | Glide | Grip | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mohair | ★★★★★ | ★★★ | ★★★ | Long tours, smooth ascents |
| Nylon | ★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | Steep climbs, rugged conditions |
| Mohair-Nylon Mix | ★★★★ | ★★★★ | ★★★★ | All-around versatility, mixed terrain |
If most of your vertical comes from long, steady approaches, choose mohair for its effortless glide. If your tours involve steep kickers, icy tracks, or abrasive spring snow, nylon or a mix will serve you better.
Beyond material, evaluate these factors before purchasing:
- Attachment system: metal or plastic tip/tail clips give the most secure fit; bungee cords are lighter and easy to adjust, popular in race setups.
- Width and length: match or run slightly narrower than the widest part of your ski (the shovel), then trim to the sidecut.
- Glue quality: a strong adhesive that performs across a range of temperatures.
- Weight: lighter skins make long uphill days noticeably easier.
For a deeper dive, Salomon's ski touring skin guide covers the same fundamentals from a manufacturer's perspective.
Trimming Your Skins: Step-by-Step Fit
A properly trimmed skin covers nearly the full base of the ski but stops short of the tip and tail, and leaves both edges exposed so your metal edge can still bite on firm sidehills.
Match the Width
Lay the skin on the ski base. Using a sharp utility knife or skin cutter, trim it to follow the edge of the ski on one side.
Offset and Cut the Second Edge
Reattach the skin with the freshly cut edge sitting 2-3mm inside the ski edge. Cut the opposite side along the ski edge so both sides end up inset.
Verify Centering
Remove the skin and place it back centered. Done correctly, the skin should sit 1-1.5mm inside both edges, leaving edge and a sliver of base exposed on each side.
Set the Length
Adjust length at the tip or tail attachment. The skin should span almost the entire ski without wrapping past the ends, keeping weight and handling manageable.
A dull blade tears the plush and leaves ragged edges. Use a fresh utility blade or a dedicated skin cutter, and take slow, deliberate passes — you cannot un-cut a skin.
Putting Skins On in the Field
Attaching skins on a slope is where beginners lose skis down the mountain. The sequence matters.
Secure Your Skis
Keep bindings in ski mode with brakes down while working on a slope. No brakes? Jam the ski tail-first firmly into the snow, or strap it to your pack.
Clean the Base
Wipe off dirt, pine needles, ice, and moisture from the ski base. Anything left on the base transfers to the skin and kills adhesion.
Apply the Skin
Clip the skin to the tip, then pull it down the center of the base with both hands, smoothing out wrinkles as you go. Attach the tail clip snugly.
Switch to Walk Mode
Only after both skins are on should you flip bindings to walk mode — otherwise a bumped ski can rocket downhill without you.
If your day starts with a skin track, put your skins on at home before leaving. Your base is clean, your hands are warm, and you start the tour faster.
If a skin comes loose mid-climb, isolate the failing section. Clear ice or debris by hand or with a scraper; for stubborn buildup, saw the affected area back and forth across your ski edge. As a last resort, secure the skin with ski straps — one around the tail, one behind the heel piece — to get you home.
Skinning Technique & Uphill Efficiency
Good technique saves more energy than any gear upgrade. Keep your weight centered over the skis, hinge at the ankles and knees, and lean slightly into the hill. Use a steady gliding stride rather than lifting your skis high — minimal lift conserves energy over thousands of steps.
| Technique | Key Point | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Body position | Weight centered, flexed ankles and knees | Leaning back on steeps |
| Stride | Steady glide, minimal ski lift | Marching with high steps |
| Pacing | Consistent, sustainable rhythm | Sprinting then bonking |
| Poles | Push in sync with each step | Planting out of rhythm |
| Turns | Kick turn: lift and pivot the ski | Skidding wide, wasteful arcs |
Glide & Grip
- Let the plush grip naturally
- Press the full skin into the snow
- Avoid stomping
Rhythm
- Find a pace you can hold for an hour
- Breathe with your stride
- Shorter steps on steeps
Kick Turns
- Lift the ski and pivot deliberately
- Plant poles wide for balance
- Practice on flat ground first
Planning a second lap? Keep your skins inside your jacket between runs. Warm glue bonds noticeably better — just cinch your pack's waist strap so they don't slide out.
Skin Care, Folding & Storage
Skins last a surprisingly long time — if you take care of them. The two rules: keep both sides clean, and keep the glue dry and protected.
Removing and folding (quarter-fold method):
- Pull the tail up to meet the tip, folding the skin in half glue-to-glue.
- Fold the bottom half down again so a quarter sticks together.
- Fold the top half back on itself into four quarters.
- Use skin savers (protective netting) if conditions are calm; skip them on windy days and apply at home.
Storage checklist:
Post-Tour Skin Care:
- Remove skins from pack and dry fully in a clean space
- Keep away from direct heat sources while drying
- Wipe off dirt with a damp cloth if needed
- Apply protective sheets and fold glue-to-glue
- Store in the stuff sack, cool and out of sunlight
Snow clumping on skins comes from temperature swings, wet snow, and worn waterproofing. Apply skin wax regularly, reapply waterproofing treatment, and carry a scraper to clear buildup mid-ascent.
Even well-maintained skins wear out. Replace yours when traction fails on climbs, the plush thins noticeably, or the fabric frays excessively. Loss of stickiness alone usually just means it's time to re-glue, not replace.
FAQ
Q: What is the best skin material for beginner ski tourers?
A mohair-nylon mix is the safest starting point for most skiers. It balances the glide of mohair with the grip and durability of nylon, so it performs acceptably across a wide range of conditions without punishing your technique.
Q: How much of my ski edge should be exposed after trimming skins?
After trimming, the skin should sit roughly 1-1.5mm inside both edges of the ski. This leaves your metal edges exposed so they can still grip firm or icy snow during sidehill travel.
Q: Why do my skins keep coming off mid-climb?
The usual culprits are dirt, ice, or moisture on the ski base or the glue side. Clean the base before applying, dry your skins thoroughly after each tour, and keep them warm inside your jacket before repeat laps. Persistent failure means the glue needs re-gluing.
Q: How do I stop snow from clumping on my ski skins?
Regularly apply skin wax to repel moisture, refresh the waterproofing treatment, and avoid big temperature transitions when possible. Carry a scraper to remove ice buildup on the fly, and never store skins wet.